Garden Center in Hudson, NH

Countrybrook Farms Nursery & Garden Center
175 Lowell Road Route 3A
Hudson, NH USA 03051
603-886-5200

"Where your daydream landscape becomes reality" 

Plants, Trees & Shrubs Most Frequently Asked Questions

Shedding Evergreens: The inner needles of my evergreens are turning brown and falling off is it dying?
It is normal for almost all evergreens to go through a shedding period every year in late summer and early fall. If it is a newly planted evergreen and you are watering deeply, and using the Root Stimulator we recommend, there is no cause for concern. A newly planted evergreen will go through their shedding process earlier than normal and is much more obvious. It will be less noticeable as it matures. If you can - take a good look at plants that are the same kind but more mature and you should see what I mean. Please see Plant Care page for appropriate watering.

Leaves turning brown:  I just planted a 7-foot Japanese Maple Tree. It was gorgeous and healthy. Within 3 days of planting, all of the leaves seemed to curl; some have started to fall off. None of the leaves have uncurled and it’s been about 2 weeks since planting. The tree was watered. Will it recover?
There are many things that could cause this. It is possible that the tree is in transplant shock. Rough handling, exposing roots to the sun and hot temperatures during planting will cause transplant shock. Transporting the tree in an open vehicle (wind at any speed for even a short distance is very damaging) Lack of water, over-watering, over fertilizing, chemical sprays or getting foliage wet during hot mid day can cause foliage problems. The best thing to do is be patient and water with extreme care. Keep the soil evenly moist like a wrung out sponge but not sopping wet or saturated. Don’t water every day. You need to dig down into the soil with your finger and check to see if and when you need to water. After watering, wait a few hours and then dig down again to see how far the water has penetrated, it can be surprising little. Water very slowly at the roots using a soaker hose set up rather than with a sprinkler. If you haven't already done so, apply 3-4 inches of organic mulch over the root zone, this will help to keep the soil moist and cool and prevent competition from weeds. Other than Root Stimulator do not fertilize the tree now, it will cause additional stress. If the tree continues to decline, I would suggest you consult with the nursery you purchased it from or your county extension service to make sure there is not something else at work and to maintain your warranty on the tree. Finally, even if the tree defoliates completely, this is a natural method of self-preservation and it still may be able to recover - so be patient with it, and continue careful watering and care. Fertilize in the spring and the new foliage will have no trace of the present-day leaf damage.

Spider mites:  We have Dwarf Alberta Spruce trees and noticed that on one of the trees the needles have started to brown. I water both trees everyday with miracid in a gallon of water.
You are probably over watering and over fertilizing by quite a bit. Both cause root damage and that then shows as foliage symptoms from the bottom up. Spider mites are also prone to attack Dwarf Alberta Spruce trees that are stressed. An easy way to check is to hold a white piece of paper under branches and tap the tree: you’ll see very tiny red specks should fall to the paper and then move. You may need a magnifying glass to see them they are barely visible. Spider mites reproduce every two or three weeks until autumn. Often damage inflicted in fall and spring goes unnoticed until the following summer. The first indication of a problem is stippling and distortion, increasing to browning and dropping needles, you might see a silky webbing on the underside of the branches; which becomes quite noticeable when it fills with dead needles and debris. A bad infestation can kill branches or the entire plant. Soapy water sprays, Horticultural oil and dormant oil can be effective in suppressing the mites if applied properly. You must apply any spray to thoroughly wet the foliage and try to contact as many mites as possible and be especially sure to cover the undersides. Thorough spray coverage is vital. You must be careful to follow the label instructions. Horticultural oil is used when the mites are active. Dormant oil is used to kill the over-wintering eggs, applied in late fall, late winter or early spring before new growth. Finally, healthy plants in healthy soil have a far greater chance of resisting insect infestation. Dwarf Alberta’s dislike wind, reflected heat from a driveway or building, hot/dry weather and over crowding.

It looks sparse: I have a 10-year Japanese Maple Tree we bought from you years ago that has always been full and beautiful, until this year. This year it looks sparse. I will like to know if there is anything we can do.
There are many things that could be the cause. It could have suffered some damage during last year's severe weather and the results of that showed up this spring. Larger trees growing near it could also be shading it too heavily. Digging, construction, or changing the grade of the area would affect it. Check to be sure it is not mulched too deeply or mulch is not against the trunk. (The trunk will slowly rot) It could be suffering from weak depleted soil and would benefit from regular organic fertilizer to improve and maintain soil and plant health. Also search the area for signs of digging rodents that could be mining under the roots. Since it is a mature and valuable tree, you might consider having a professionally trained and certified arborist inspect it for you to make sure there are no disease or insect issues. After it is dormant prune away any dead branches before they begin to break off to minimize the risk of more damage.

No Blooms: A tree like mine is on my street and is blooming, mine is not, should I return it to where I bought it?
It is normal for almost all trees to go through a transition period before they become established. If it was recently planted it may have bloomed before you bought it if it was grown south of our region. It may be a slightly different, later blooming tree than the one you see blooming. Give it a chance and time it needs to adjust. If it is no showing ANY sign of life by Memorial Day then that's another story.

Problems with Clematis: I planted a clematis. Many of the stems & leaves have turned very brown. How can I save it? Clematis is sometimes bothered by clematis wilt, which is caused by a fungus that enters the stem just above the soil. To prevent it propper planting is essential. Start with a hole in full sun 18" deep & 18" wide. Handle the plant very gently and place it in the hole at a depth so that the first to sets of leaf nodes will be blelow the ground. Use rich compost ammeded soil to plant it. Water deeply. Mulch up to the stems of the clematis but avoid having the mulch touching it. Planting a living mulch will increase chances of sucess. Creeping Phlox, Thyme, Hens and Chickens or other shallow rooted ground cover works well. Clematis likes "it's head to be in the sun and it's feet to be in the shade" For Clematis plants already showing signs of the Clematis wilt disease cut off & dispose of the infected vines so it does not spread to healthy vines. Apply fungicide as soon as possible to prevent more disease.

Not Watered: I planted several trees and shrubs recently. While I was on vacation for two weeks my house sitters forgot to water them. There are a lot of brown leaves and some are falling off. Can they possibly be saved?
Ouch! Hopefully! Please review the Plant Care Page for watering and using Root Stimulator. First, as soon as possible water them very thoroughly for the next couple of days in a row. A slow running soaker hose left on over night may be required if there are many to water. Return to regular watering as described, watering as the soil feels dry. Second, don't over compensate by continually over-watering them, it will not help them. You'll have to look at the scorched leaves through the rest of the season, but they should look fine next year. Third, don’t forget to give them an application of fertilizer in the spring. They may also be slow to come out of dormancy next spring because of the stress this year. Finally, give a dope slap to the house sitters that neglegted them!

 

Q: How do you raise or lower the pH level of the soil?
A: Lime will raise soil pH, while garden sulfur or aluminum sulfate will lower the pH.

Q: My bulbs have finished blooming and the green foliage looks messy, can I cut them back now?
A: Since bulbs get energy from the nutrients produced in the leaves, you should wait until the foliage turns brown before cutting them back.

Q: How do I change the color of my blooms on my hydrangea from blue to pink?
A: To make the blossoms pink, you need to sweeten the soil or increase the pH level of the soil. This can be done by applying lime to the soil.

Q: How do I change the colors of my blooms on my hydrangea from pink to blue?
A: To make the blossoms blue, you need to lower the pH level of the soil. This can be done by applying aluminum sulfate to the soil.

Q: How can I get my wisteria to bloom since it has not bloomed for years?
A: Wisterias can be very stubborn about blooming. Here are some steps that you can try, however to try and help them flower. First, prune them back heavy in June to stimulate growth. Second, you can try root pruning, by taking a shovel and making a series of cuts in the ground. Making a circle around the tree about several feet out from the main trunk, take a shovel and cut into the ground about every 12". So if the circle were a clock with the tree in the middle, make cuts at 12, 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10. By cutting the roots, you are stimulating growth, which often will encourage flowering. Third, into the cuts in the ground add super-phosphate fertilizer with a high phosphorous plant food (no nitrogen).


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