Planting How To: Step by Step Instruction

To start with you will need the following items:
Spade (round pointed shovel)
Sharp knife or scissors
Soil amendments such as: compost, manure,
peat moss or combination of them all is even better
Garden hose
Appropriate Fertilizer (see fertilizer page)
Fert-i-lome Root Stimulator
Bark Mulch
Optional: tarp or wheelbarrow

Remember: It’s always wiser to dig a $100 hole for a $20 tree, than a $20 hole for a $100 tree. Protect your investment! The plant will be healthy if the roots are happy.

Plants that we sell at the garden center are available in two forms: container grown, which is growing in a pot, or balled and burlapped, also known as B&B, the roots are wrapped with burlap and often held in a wire cage. There is a difference in the way they should be planted, so please follow appropriate the instructions below. 

Trees & Shrubs that are Balled and Burlapped - B&B

 * Step One * Measure the root ball from the ground to the top outer edge. Dig the hole to that depth and no deeper. The plant should sit on very firm undisturbed soil.  The hole should be at least six inches wider than the root-ball, wider if it is poor quality soil. Place the soil you are removing from the hole off to the side, in a wheelbarrow, or on a tarp to re-use a portion of it. 

 * Step Two * With everything still intact including the burlap and wire cage if there is one, carefully maneuver the plant into the planting hole and check that the depth is correct. The top outer edge of the root-ball should be level with the surrounding ground or just slightly above. (One inch would be good to allow for settling)  Water should move away from the trunk area. Correct the depth if it is not right. Turn the tree or shrub to face the way you like and ensure that it is straight.

 * Step Three * At this point add just a few scoops of soil and tamp it around the bottom of the root ball tightly to keep it upright and straight. Make sure the water in the hose is not hot and then fill the hole ¾ with water to give the plant a good drink. (Don’t skip this)

 * Step Four * While the hose is filling the hole you will now be able to remove all the strings or rope from the top including the trunk covering and remove the burlap from just the topmost portion of the root-ball. The loose burlap can be cut off or stuffed into the sides of the planting hole. The burlap will decompose in no time but every bit of string must be removed from the trunk area or it will girdle the tree. The corners of the metal cage will now fold down into the hole. Do not try to completely remove the wire cage. The tree roots will quickly grow right through it, and you would damage the tree (and surely your back) trying to remove it.

 * Step Five * Now you should improve a portion of the soil you removed from the hole by mixing it with the good rich compost amendment. The amendment is needed to help give your young plant a good healthy start and get the plant acclimated to its new location. The mixing ratio for an average tree or shrub should be approximately 1/3 compost to 2/3 soil. For plants that prefer very rich soil, ratio could be as much as 50/50. Examples of plants that prefer very rich soil: Dogwoods, Birch, Mt. Laurel, Azalea, Japanese Andromeda, Blueberries, Hydrangea, Holly, and Boxwood.

 * Step Six * Backfill ¾ of the planting hole with the amended soil. Fill the hole with water again and add the recommended amount of Root Stimulator to the water. This will eliminate air pockets and ensure good moist soil for the plant therefore reducing transplant shock. Do not tamp down the soil.

 * Step Seven * For the top portion, amend more of the soil for backfilling but also mix in the recommended amount of granular fertilizer. If planting is being done before July 1st you can use a synthetic starter fertilizer. If it is later, use only organic fertilizer such as Prow-Grow, Plant-Tone or Holly-Tone Fertilizer. Backfill the rest of the planting hole with the soil and fertilizer combination. The top of the backfilling soil should be level with the outer edge of the root-ball. Do not cover the top of the root-ball with any soil. The tree flare or shrub crown must remain uncovered.

 * Step Eight * Ring the entire soil area with a shallow wall of soil to help maximize the amount of water that gets down to the root zone. Slowly fill the basin with water, allowing it to soak deeply to the roots.

 * Step Nine * Cover the soil with bark mulch, being careful to taper the mulch so that none is touching the trunk or covering the crown.

There you’re done! It’s time for a tall glass of your favorite beverage. You’ve earned it. Jump to the bottom of the page for final tips.
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Planting Trees or Shrubs that are in pots

 * Step 1 * Thoroughly water the potted plant to ensure that it does not fall apart during the planting. Measure the plant from the ground to the soil level inside the pot. Dig the hole to that depth and no deeper. The plant should sit on very firm undisturbed soil. The hole should be at least six inches wider than the root-ball, wider if it is poor quality soil. Place the soil you are removing from the hole in a wheelbarrow, or on a tarp to re-use.

 * Step 2 * Carefully remove the plant from the pot. It may be necessary to cut the pot. After its removed if the roots are visibly thick, score the roots with a knife and gently detangle them a bit.  Avoid leaving the exposed roots in the sun or wind any longer than absoultely needed. Gently place the plant into the planting hole and check that the depth is correct. The top outer edge of the soil should be level with the surrounding ground or just slightly above. (One inch would be good to allow for settling, less for small plants)  Correct the depth if it is not right. Turn the tree or shrub to face the way you like and ensure that it is straight. 

 * Step 3 * At this point add just a few scoops of soil and pack it around the root ball just to keep it upright and straight. Fill the hole ¾ with water to give the plant a good drink. (Don’t skip this)

 * Step 4 * Now you should improve a portion of the soil you removed from the hole by mixing it with the good rich compost amendment. The amendment is needed to help give it a good healthy start and get the plant acclimated to its new location. The mixing ratio for an average tree or shrub should be approximately 1/3 compost to 2/3 soil. For plants that prefer very rich soil ratio could be as much as 50/50. Examples of plants that prefer very rich soil: Dogwoods, Birch, Mt. Laurel, Azalea, Japanese Andromeda, Blueberries, Hydrangea, Holly, Boxwood and a few others.

 * Step 5 * Backfill ¾ of the planting hole with the amended soil. Fill the hole with water again and add the recommended amount of Root Stimulator to the water. This watering will eliminate air pockets and ensure good moist soil for the plant therefore reducing transplant shock. Do not tamp down the soil.    

 * Step 6 * For the top portion, amend more of the soil for backfilling but also mix in the recommended amount of granular fertilizer. If planting is being done before July 1^st you can use a synthetic starter fertilizer. If it is later, use only organic fertilizer such as Prow-Grow, Plant-Tone or Holly-Tone Fertilizer. Backfill the rest of the planting hole with the soil and fertilizer combination. The top of the backfilling soil should be level with the outer edge of the top. Do not cover the top of the roots with any soil. The tree flare or shrub crown must remain uncovered.

 * Step 7 * Ring the entire soil area with a shallow wall of soil to help maximize the amount of water that gets down to the root zone. Slowly fill the basin with water, allowing it to soak deeply to the roots.

 * Step 8 * Cover the soil with bark mulch, being careful to taper the mulch so that none is touching the trunk or covering the crown.
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Watering is VITAL and should be done as much as 2 or 3 times per week in very hot weather but never water everyday. All watering should be done VERY slowly for a long pereiod. Root Stimulator should be used  once per week to help with transplant shock. The shallow dam can be removed later after the tree or shrub is acclimated and frequent watering is not needed.  Light pruning can be done at planting time. Prune any broken branches, deadhead flowers, or tip prune to promote new growth on lower branches. Staking is no longer recommended unless the tree is in the path of constant winds such as a lakeside or mountainside area. If they are used, they must be removed after one year or it will girdle the tree.

 * See Plant Care Page for more details about caring for the plant after it’s planted and what to watch out for.